Chef Pavo Klaric shares his perspective on cooking, people, and the stories behind Luciano Restaurant…
Croatia is well known for its gastronomy, where every region has its own delicacies. Istria stands out not only within Croatia, but also worldwide. It is positioned between the Adriatic Sea and the Alps, with a unique climate and rich soil.
Here, truffles can be found, olive groves produce exceptional olive oils, wild asparagus grows on every corner, and local wines are poured into glasses while the table is filled with many gastronomic wonders. From garden to table, from appetisers to desserts, at the Michelin-recommended Luciano Restaurant in San Canzian, on the hills of Buje, you can find everything from Istrian beef tartare, homemade gnocchi, ravioli and fuzi pasta, to freshly caught fish, game, rillettes, and many more.
Every meal is special, but who makes it so behind the kitchen counter? Behind it all is chef Pavo Klaric, sharing his own perspective on cooking.
1. How did you first fall in love with cooking, and what was your favourite meal as a child?
My first touch with the kitchen was when I was 5 years old, I liked to eat and because of that I was always in kitchen with my mom. My favorite meal as I child was roasted pork, lamb and spaghetti bolognese.
2. Do you remember the first dish you cooked, and how you realised this would become your profession?
One day I spoke to my mom that I have idea of rolling pork and beef together and roast with vegetables, I was also around 5 years old, I think that was my first dish. I realized that I want to become chef trough watching TV shows.
3. Looking back, which moments, people or experiences most shaped your journey and led you to Luciano, the Michelin-recommended restaurant at San Canzian?
When I was working as a young chef one day I read some article about new opened hotel in Istria named San Canzian. In that moment I said to myself ”you have to work there” few months after that I became executive chef at Luciano restaurant, so what can I say… I believe some chemistry just happened.
4. How would you describe your cooking style today? Who or what has shaped it the most?
For my cooking style I would say its rustic with nice touch of French discipline. Important rule for every dish is that it has to be honest and it needs to have a story behind it. I believe that dishes without a story or moment behind are just food. I was always dreaming of living in Istria, so for past years Istria is responsible for my style, and when I say Istria I mean the people and nature. At the beginning of my cooking journey, hotel Esplanade fundamentally shaped me as a cook and that’s the reason of my French touch in some dishes.
5. We love the story behind the name Luciano. Can you share more about its history and what it represents today?
Luciano restaurant is named by the first neighbor Luciano. Our neighbor Luciano broth us eggs on opening day, that’s tradition in Istria to gift egg as a symbol of new beginning. In honor of that, I designed an egg-based dish that has become our signature dish.
6. San Canzian is surrounded by Istrian vineyards and olive groves. How does this landscape influence your menus?
Nature is my main source of inspiration, so it has a very relieving effect, because new ideas appear at every step.
7. Coming from another region of Croatia, how has that shaped the way you interpret local cuisine in your menus?
The continental part of me is still there, and I always use it to season Istrian cuisine. That’s exactly why I believe I always put a part of myself into the dishes I create.
8. Is there a dish on the Luciano menu this season that feels particularly close to you, and an ingredient you especially value?
For the last few seasons, I have some ingredients that I value, and those are potatoes, corn and tomatoes. Those ingredients are so simple, and they nourished generations of Istrian people.
9. Luciano follows a farm-to-table approach with a focus on sustainability. How does this shape your daily decisions in the kitchen?
That means only one thing, you have to be prepared every day that nature might not provide what you had planned for that day, and that’s when creativity comes into play.
10. What keeps you motivated in your work today, and where do you turn when you step away from the kitchen?
My motivation is feeling that I discover something new almost every day and my team, because we grow together. When I’m not in kitchen you can find me at some winery tasting new wines, or painting on my terrace.
11. When guests leave Luciano, what would you like them to remember most about their time here?
I would be so happy that our guest remember the feeling they had while they were on dinner or lunch at Luciano. And that they remember that what they ate truly involved a lot off effort and hard work. I wish they could take a piece of Istria with them.
The meaning behind the dish
Behind every dish stand the chef, his team, and the place reflected in it. And it is through people like Chef Pavo Klaric, who express their uniqueness through their work, that special stories are created — stories that give character to the places where they live and create.
Having experienced San Canzian and Luciano Restaurant ourselves, we truly enjoyed both the setting and every dish served on the terrace. Surrounded by nature, we enjoyed the scents of aromatic plants like lavender and rosemary, along with the gentle sounds of birds and a light breeze on a sunny day. These are the kinds of moments we love to remember.
We can’t wait to return this season, reconnect with the warm and welcoming people who make this place so special, and discover what’s new on the menu.
A few final notes…
- Sweet or savoury?
Savoury and after that sweet 😊 - When dining out, do you prefer lunch or dinner?
Lunch - Wine with food — always, sometimes, or not necessarily?
Wine is my passion so whenever is possible - Meat or fish — to prepare and to eat?
Meat to eat and fish to prepare - Sea or countryside?
Sea for sure - Tradition or experimentation?
Experimentation based on tradition - One ingredient you could not imagine your kitchen without?
Olive oil - Silence in the kitchen or music? If music — what kind?
Before service soft rock, but during the service silence - Simplicity or complexity on the plate?
Simplicity always because the dish must speak for itself
